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A cornice, a piece of ornamental moulding put in to hang drapes and curtains, is built - either as part of a repair facility or independently. Because there are so many distinct varieties of cornices and surfaces, installing this item varies. The intricacies are known only to an experienced professional, who will take care of the work in a few minutes while someone without expertise would have to figure it out much longer.
It will be possible to do it yourself, but installing a cornice without help from an expert is always associated with significant risk. In this case, not only can damage occur as a result of falling ceilings, plasterboard or tiles, but even injuries - if the cornice itself "kills" someone during its installation.
For these reasons, it is worth hiring Geolance experts who will install a cornice for you in just one day. We care about our customers' comfort, and we strive to bring them only the best.
Installation of the curtain rod on the wall or the ceiling
For curtain rods, the building is finished on the supplied legs. Before connecting the element, make accurate markings with a level (ideally a laser) to ensure accuracy. The most typical mistake in marking is a slanted or uneven wall or slope, which would violate any level lines.
Without first being built up, the ceiling cornice is attached to the guide. The 20-centimetre step on the plastic cornice is smaller than that on the metal one (40 cm). It should be mentioned that if the ceiling surface isn't smooth enough, the cornice will exacerbate any flaws. In addition, the material of the guide greatly influences the weight of the element itself, which may cause problems with its durability.
Cornice installation on an uneven wall or ceiling necessitates the addition of reinforcement at the fixation locations. The ideal answer for this is to use anchors or screws that can bear the additional weight. External corners are the only acute angle needed for a cornice. Internal corners and intersections with other surfaces need to be rounded - for this, you can use a fillet or chamfer.
It is most practical for most cornices to mount them over the interior corners and intersections, where the possibility of breaking tiles and plasterboard is ruled out.
Focusing on the process of installation of the cornice in the kitchen or bath
The preparation is performed with a drill and drywall saw. After marking the cut lines, you need to make holes in the plasterboard with an awl for fastening screws. The guide should be glued to the ceiling before installation because it is very likely that it will no longer be possible to fix it in place once the element is mounted.
If the cornice protrudes over the edge of an opening, it should be prepared in advance to hide any cut ends because they are unsightly and may fall apart later. The external corners are rounded with routers or grinders outfitted with a plastic guide.
If the interior corner is rounded, then the installation of cornices becomes straightforward and fast - it's enough to cut along one line, glue the guide to the surface with adhesive tape (don't forget about two-component glue) and mark all other locations.
Installation of coving onto a concrete ceiling is generally done on the inner corners. For this, the cornice is firmly attached with screws or anchors to the floor or wall - e.g., for connecting elements made from metal and plastic, you can use power.
A straight line is a metal or wooden strip that serves as a guide for installation. It can have any length, depending on the task to be performed. However, the most common sizes are 1 meter, 1.5 meters and 3 meters.
A strip of wood or metal can be used as a straight edge, but you need to remember that the implementation needs to be non-bump (moulded) to avoid accidental damage to plasterboard or tiles.
It is necessary to cover all the surfaces in contact with the adhesive, so you need a clean rag or towel. The only exception is the wall behind the coving, which should remain dry during installation.
The width of the tape depends on its type - if it's standard TMT tape, it is usually 20-30 mm; if it's foam tape - about 40-50 mm. The video is applied to the surface in advance to its full length, starting from the corner of the wall and continuing along the entire length of the pipe.
When applying adhesive for coving, it mustn't get on other surfaces, or they will stick together. Therefore, it is best to use a unique bond for coving. The most common types are fast-setting and slow-drying - the first kind has a lower price but does not allow enough time to install the element without haste. In contrast, in the second case, it is possible, but financial costs increase significantly.
After applying tape to both surfaces, press them together. Again, it would be best if you worked quickly and precisely: the adhesive dries quickly, and you can leave it exposed for too long.
1. Mark the level line;
2. Remove old coving;
3. Pull insulation tape;
4. Apply a thin coat of adhesive;
5. Pull insulation tape;
6. Cut the product to size;
7. Mount the coving to the guide and fix it with screws and plugs (in this case, metal and plastic elements are used).
Drill cutting coving into the wall
For wooden cornices, you can do it directly into the wall. The opening should be at least 3 centimetres smaller than the moulding to avoid getting stuck somewhere in the middle of its installation.
Projected corners are done with a particular device called an angular router bit. But, again, this is not something for amateurs and should be handed over to a specialist.
In the case of an external wall, coving is usually mounted at a distance from its end onto which it fits. In any case, you should connect it with a screw.
Do-it-yourselfers can install coving using small magnets that hold the item in place while DIY coving installation for about 12 hours.
The installation of a cornice is completed by another step – fixing it to the wall with special screws made of round, plastic rivets. The material and number of clips depend on the weight and size of a load to be supported. Polystyrene coving and cutting coving, generally white, is the cheapest. However, it is not suitable for installation in kitchens due to its poor heat resistance. Next, internal and external corners are coved with metal lathes. Plaster cornice is most commonly used in bathrooms. The final assembly completes the installation of a wooden cornice with the help of nails, screws or dowels.
Plaster coving installation
Plaster coves, both indoors and outdoors, are installed in a very similar way to the installation of a cornice. The only difference is that the corner element will be connected to the wall with nails or screws. Installation can also be performed with special adhesives for plasterboard. First, Coving adhesive is applied to both the wall and the corner element. Then, the piece is installed with a unique tool for attaching plaster coving. Fit coving installation on an annular part (corner) requires greater accuracy because it fits precisely with the existing corner walls.
Coving firmly adhesive is applied to both the wall and the corner element. Next, the piece is installed with a unique tool for attaching plaster coving.
Cornice installation on angular walls (corners) requires greater accuracy because it has to fit precisely with the existing corners of the room. Therefore, when installing a cornice in a small space, you should pay attention to how it will affect the furniture placement in the room.
A typical issue is securing the cornice to drywall paint. It's hazardous for this application, so it's better to use anchors with long screws inserted more profound into the wall.
The installation of a floor-to-ceiling cornice requires special care because, most likely, only one end will be fixed. The type of cornice chosen depends on the design and function. If it's a traditional load-bearing one, it requires fastening by screws at multiple points to support the weight required.
This type of cornices is used in offices, where they go along the entire room perimeter; their installation may take several hours and require additional workforce or equipment for installation.
Because the roof decking must have excellent adhesion, putting a cornice on it is pretty tricky. So before priming and painting the surface, sand it first. Then, after fixing the element in place, do any necessary maintenance—cleaning debris from vents or replacing aged sealants—at least once a year.
Where to or which is the installation of a cornice?
Ceiling cornices can be made from almost any material and installed in a few minutes, from wood to metal or plastic. Brick is covered with gypsum plaster; concrete is coated with putty.
The installation of a cornice on the ceiling surface is completed through nailing, screwing and gluing:
For wooden surfaces: prime with primer, apply paint or varnish, drill holes for nails or screws depending on the material; remove burrs from the edges for metal surfaces.
Depending on specific standards, you may even hang the cornice on the wall of their drywall. Are you looking for a high-quality aluminum curtain rod installation or anything similar? Again, it is more sensible to entrust the expert because it will save you time and effort.
Geolance is an online service that may assist you in locating a qualified dancer. You can quickly choose a reputable specialist on this site, which emphasizes genuine comments and ratings. Savings are attributable to the lack of intermediaries and competition among performers.
It is essential that the area where work is to be performed be well-ventilated.
The ideal temperature for working with drywall compounds, primers and paints would be between 18 ° C and 30 ° C. It's recommended to take special precautions in hot weather to protect the consumer and the constructor from sunstroke. The climatic conditions of the installation must be taken into account when choosing a specific material.
Using solvents in excess can hurt health, so working in gloves and a dust mask is advisable. In addition, the drywall compound dries very quickly, which is why you need to take extra care when applying it.
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